GRASSE The world capital of the perfumes       Stand on the large public terrace across from the road from the Palais de Congres and the bay of Cannes opens up before you. Nearly 200 years ago Napoleon's sister, Pauline Bonaparte would contemplate the view and enjoy the rich bouquet which rose up from the sweetly scented plain. Even then, Grasse was reknowned throughout Europe as the perfume capital of the world.       The French perfume industry began here in the 16th century. Grasse had been a center for leather and tanning and was famous for glove production since the 13th century. When fashions changed in favor of scented gloves Grasse provided them. Eventually the perfume industry surpassed its' leather industry and the perfumeries were officially registered in 1729.     Famous people have always visited Grasse. These have included Napoleon's sister Princess Pauline de Bonaparte who spent the winter of 1807-08 recuperating from ill health here. Napoleon himself passed through Grasse and Queen Victoria stayed at the Grand Hotel.           Grasse is situated a mere fifteen kilometers north from Cannes, the French Riviera's lure for the rich and famous, Grasse is also close to the city of Nice (30 minutes east by car). The town is nestled amongst wonderful countryside enjoying a backdrop of hills, forests, rivers and canyons. Public transport connecting Grasse with the other major towns in the Alpes-Maritime region is by bus.     Despite being so close to the fine sand beaches of Cannes, with their stifling heat in summer, Grasse at an altitude of 300 - 400 meters enjoys a fresher climate all year round. The plentiful sunshine and mild temperatures make the town and surrounding areas ideal for flower growing, and thus ideal for the production of perfume.       The importance of scent in Grasses' history is brought to life at the Musée International de la Parfumerie - a museum in the town which provides details of the process of perfume manufacture and covers 3000 years of the industry's history. The museum's chief treasure is the travel case of Marie Antoinette and the building also houses a greenhouse where the public can experience the all-encompassing, aromatically fragrant plants and flowers growing at first hand.     The main street in Grasse is the Boulevard du Jeu de Ballon and it is here that carnivals take place throughout the year, winding their way through the old part of town, past 17th and 18th century buildings, arched tunnels and tiny squares. The main square is the Place Aux Aires, which is picturesque with its three-tiered fountain in the center. A daily flower and local produce market is held in this square marrying the ancient with the modern.         Here, of course, is situated the main factory of perfumerie Galimard, which is open year-round for visitors.       Two major festivals throughout the year pay tribute to Grasse's most important commodity - flowers. The Fête du Jasmin is held in August while the International Rose Festival takes place in May.       In conclusion, Grasse the 'Perfume Capital of the World' is truly that. A medieval town it is well worth a visit if only to experience the wonderful fragrances hanging in the air during the summer months. Every time we spray on some perfume, and when a memory is stirred by the whiff of a scent, we should remember that we owe the luxury to the pioneering perfumers of Grasse.